Will crochet for coffee

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Coffee cup cozies, java jammies, mug sweaters . . . Whatever you want to call them, they are great projects for beginners, a quick gift, or just to use up bits of yarn. I wanted one that would keep your hand cool and your coffee warm no matter what cup you were using. Here is what I came up with.

Adjustable Coffee Cozy

Yarn: 50-70 yards of worsted weight, I used Galway Paint

Hook: US G, 4.00mm

Notions: button about 1”dia

Gauge: Not important for this pattern

Special stitches:
FPDC - Front Post Double Crochet: Yarn over. Insert hook around post of next stitch from right to left. Yarn over, finish DC as usual
Waffle stitch - *DC in the FPDC, FPDC in the DC*

Body:
chain 19

row 1: dc into 4th ch from hook, dc in next 15 sts (16 dc)

row 2: ch 2 (counts as hdc here and throughout), turn, *fpdc around first st, dc in top of next st* 7 times, hdc into top of turning chain (16 sts)

row 3-25: ch 2, turn, *fpdc around dc from last row, dc in top of fpdc from last row* 7 times, hdc into top of turning chain (16 sts)

Strap:
row 26: ch 1, turn, slip stitch into next 5 dc, ch 1, sc into next 6 dc (6 st)
row 27: ch3, turn, dc into next st, ch2 & skip next 2 st, dc into next 2 st (6 st)
row 28: ch1, turn, sc across (6 st)
Repeat rows 27-28 5 times (6 buttonholes)
Finish off and weave in ends.

Sew on button around row 8 or so.

-----------------------

This pattern hasn't been tested by anyone but me, so feedback is welcome!

Making peace with denim-style

Saturday, November 22, 2008

I frogged most of the scarves I was making with Bernat's denim-style yarn. I was really starting to hate that stuff. But I have finally made peace with it. It works up nicely as a hat when I use an L hook (8.00mm).

It has been wicked cold the past couple of weeks. Great yarn weather. I keep adding more winter-wear items to my Ravelry queue. I can't possibly get them all done, but I can't stop collecting them. Every once in a while I'll go through the queue and weed out the items that, when I'm honest with myself, I know I will never make.

I keep adding more yarn to my stash, too. I've got to stop buy yarn until I get some of these projects done. But there are so many lovely yarns out there calling my name. I'm currently glomming on Highlander from Alpaca With A Twist. It is so soft and buttery. And the colors are homey and comforting. This yarn just makes me happy.

Scarf Mania

Sunday, November 9, 2008

With the economy in the tank, it's a good year for homemade gifts. That's why everyone is getting a scarf this year. At the moment I have nine different scarves in the works, with more on the way.

Most of them are in Bernat denim style yarn. I love the way this yarn looks on the shelf. Unfortunately, it's not as much fun to work with. It's almost a bulky weight so it needs at least a J-hook to have any loft whatsoever. I'm keeping the stitches simple because even a basic V-stitch felt too stiff with big holes.

But it did give me an opportunity to try a slip stitch pattern based on David Benjamin Burchall's techniques. Using a Bates P-hook (11.50MM), I am alternating back loops and front loops. The resulting looks similar to a knitted American moss stitch. And the fabric is soft and drapey. I'm pretty happy with it.

On the knitting front, I finished my garter stitch scarf and have started moss stitch scarf and a ribbed scarf (both in Bernat denim). I have also started a hat using a beautiful mint green Highlander yarn from Alpaca with a Twist. I love this yarn so much I don't even mind using pointy sticks. It is so soft I can't wait to touch it. My husband is starting to question my relationship with this yarn.

Stick it

Thursday, November 6, 2008

I'm becoming bi-stitchual. I started a garter stitch scarf the other day to give the knitting muscles a work-out. I will never love working with pointing sticks the way I do with hooks. I just don't think that way. But I would like to be competent enough to knit at least one pair of socks in my lifetime. I know there are folks that crochet socks and more power to them. I just don't like the feel of crocheted footwear.

Good N Plenty bag

Wednesday, October 22, 2008


After the monster crochet bag, I needed to prove to myself that I could do a reasonably sized string bag, so I set out to make a bag using one 2oz ball of cotton worsted weight. The yarn I chose reminds me of Good N Plenty licorice candies.

I'll post pics as soon as I get a good shot out of my crap digi-camera. In the mean time, here's the pattern. If you make this bag, please post comments. I'd love to hear your feedback.

Good N Plenty Bag
(one skein cotton string bag)

This pattern is worked in rounds from the top down to make it easier to adjust for the variable yardage of individual skeins. Because yarn is sold by weight, yardage can vary from skein to skein. The more dye a yarn has, the few yards it will offer per skein. The idea is to get as many rounds out of your skein as possible.

Work both loops throughout. Mark the end of each round with a stitch marker or scrap of yarn to help keep track of rows.

Finished size: approx 10” high x 9” wide

Gauge: 7 rows = 2” and 6 stitches = 2”

Yarn: Peaches N Cream (worsted weight, 100% cotton; 2 oz) 1 ball of #198 Black Cherry Ombre

Hook: USJ10/6.00mm

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch

Pattern:
Ch 49, sl st to join being careful not to twist the chain (do not turn throughout)

Handles:
Rnd 1: ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in each ch around, sl st to join (49 st)

Rnd 2-3: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to join (49 st)

Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in next 7 sc, ch 10 skip next 10 sc, sc in next 14 sc, ch 10 skip next 10 sc, sc in next 7 sc, sl st to join (49 st)

Rnd 5: ch 1, sc in each stitch around, sl st to join (49 st)


Mesh body:
Rnd 6: *ch 4, skip 1 sc, sc in the next sc* 24 times (24 ch loops)

Rnd 7-15: *ch 4, sc in ch loop* 24 times (24 ch loops)


Bottom:
Rnd 16: 2 sc in each ch loop around, sl st to join (48 st)

Rnd 17-19: ch 1 (counts as 1st sc of rnd), sc in each sc around, sl st to join (48 st)

**Rnd 20: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to join, fasten off


Finishing:
Whip stitch the bottom closed (make two passes if you have enough yarn left), weave in ends.

** Note: Repeat Rnd 17 for as many rows as possible while still leaving enough yarn to sew the bottom closed. If you have enough to make it to Rnd 21, go for it. If you can only get to Rnd 19, that's ok too.

Voulez-vous crochet avec moi?

Friday, October 17, 2008

The manager of my LYS asked me if I'd be interested in teaching a crochet class. I am both flattered and freaked out by the idea. Getting paid to teach people to hook . . . what's not to love!

But what if I am a lousy teacher? These people are paying me to learn how to crochet. I'm not just wasting their time if I suck. I'm wasting their money, too.

Classes don't start until December. That should give me plenty of time to get over myself and plan some lessons.

For the love of all that is fuzzy . . .

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Grumble, grumble, grouse, growl . . .

I finally reached the top of the string bag and I can't help but notice how enormous this bag seems. It is only now that I realize the pattern called for a F hook (3.75mm) but I've been using an H hook (5.oomm). D'oh! And this, my friends, is why you should always check you gauge.

But I'll be damned if I'm going to rip it out and start over. I'll just call it a beach bag instead of a market bag and pretend I meant to make it big enough to hold a Buick.

By now, my entire left hand has turned green from the dye in this yarn. Luckily it washes off easily. This colorway is a bit obnoxious in a dense fabric, but the loops actually look kind of pretty. They remind me of goldfish scales. I'll post pics when I finally complete the handles.

Peaches N green

Monday, October 13, 2008

I started making a string bag using Deborah E. Burger's Super Self-pouching String Bag pattern. It works up pretty fast and I really like the pouch. My string bags tend to get tangled up in closet flotsam. This should prevent that problem.

I chose Peaches N Cream Sunflower Ombre because I was recently given an entire cone of it. I've never used PnC before. I've always used Sugar N Cream in the past. No really reason, that's just what's usually available.

The green in this ombre is pretty intense. So intense, it is turning the index finger of my yarn hand green as I work with it. I'll have to be careful what I wash it with the first few times.

It just looks like a misshapen dolly, at the moment. I hope to finish it in the next day or two.

Felted Crochet Booga Bag

Saturday, October 11, 2008

I made this bag for my 12 year old daughter. The ladies at my local yarn shop (LYS), Heavenly Creations, liked it so much they asked for the pattern.

Felted Crochet Booga Bag
The bottom of this bag is a solid granny square, which creates a spiral effect when using an omber or variegated yarn. Using a J hook will result in loose stitches that will tighten up during the felting process.

Skill level: Easy

Gauge:
6 rows = 2", 7 sts = 2"
Gauge isn't important for this pattern.

Finished size approx 6" wide by 6" deep by 10" high, depending on felting.

Materials needed:
Hooks
6.0 mm (US J or 10)
3.5 mm (US E or 4)

Yarns
Brown Sheep Lanaloft Worsted Weight, one 100g ball of each color (160 yds per skein)
Color A - Mystic Pink #LL90W
Color B - Rain Drop #LL93W
Color C - Turquoise Magi #LL92W

Finishing materials
Yarn needle to weave in ends
Coordinating button
Sewing needle and thread to attach button

Abbreviations
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain


Directions:
Body

With J hook, using Color A ch-2
Row 1 - 8 sc into first stitch, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (8 sc)
(See note**)

Row 2 - ch-1, sc into same st, 2 sc into each remaining st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (16 sc)

Row 3 - ch-1, sc into next 2 st, *ch-2, sc into next 4 st* 3 times, ch-2, sc into next st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (16 sc)

Row 4 - ch-1, sc into next 2 st, sc into ch loop, *ch-2, sc into ch loop, sc into next 4 st, sc into ch loop* 3 times, sc into next st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (24 sc)

Row 5 - ch-1, sc into next 3 st, sc into ch loop, *ch-2, sc into ch loop, sc into next 6 st, sc into ch loop* 3 times, sc into next 2 st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (32 sc)

Row 6 - ch-1, sc into next 4 st, sc into ch loop, *ch-2, sc into ch loop, sc into next 8 st, sc into ch loop* 3 times, sc into next 3 st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (40 sc)

Row 7 - ch-1, sc into next 5 st, sc into ch loop, *ch-2, sc into ch loop, sc into next 10 st, sc into ch loop* 3 times, sc into next 4 st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (48 sc)

Row 8 - ch-1, sc into next 6 st, sc into ch loop, *ch-2, sc into ch loop, sc into next 12 st, sc into ch loop* 3 times, sc into next 5 st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (56 sc)

Row 9 - ch-1, sc into next 7 st, sc into ch loop, *ch-2, sc into ch loop, sc into next 14 st, sc into ch loop* 3 times, sc into next 6 st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (64 sc)

Row 10 - ch-1, sc into next 8 st, sc into ch loop, *ch-2, sc into ch loop, sc into next 16 st, sc into ch loop* 3 times, sc into next 7 st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (72 sc)

Row 11 - ch-1, sc into next 9 st, sc into ch loop, *ch-2, sc into ch loop, sc into next 18 st, sc into ch loop* 3 times, sc into next 8 st, sl st into the top of the ch-1 to join (80 sc)


Attach Color B
Row 12-16 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)
(See note ***)

Attach Color C
Row 17 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Change to Color B
Row 18-21 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Change to Color C
Row 22-23 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Change to Color B
Row 24-26 ch-1 sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Change to Color C
Row 27-29 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Change to Color B
Row 30-31 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Change to Color C
Row 32-35 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Change to Color B
Row 36 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Change to Color C
Row 37 - ch-1, sc into next 2 st, *ch-3, skip next 3 st, sc into next 8 st* 7 times, sc into next 5 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88) (to form holes for i-cord handle)

Row 38-40 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join (88)

Row 41 - ch-1, sc into next 87 st, sl st into top of ch-1 to join, fasten off, weave in ends (88)


Flap
With J hook, using Color A ch 5, leave a 6-8" tail for finishing.
Row 1 - sc into 2 from hook, sc in next 3, ch 1, turn (4)
Row 2-10 - 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4)
Row 11 - sc, ch-2, skip 2 st, sc, ch 1, turn (to form button hole)
Row 12 - 4 sc, fasten off, weave in this end only.


I-Cord
With E hook, using Color A ch-4, sl st in the first stitch to form a ring,
sc into the ring 6 times, do not turn
sc into the top of the first sc of row one to start a spiral, sc in each st, spiraling around until you reach the length desired. Fasten off, leave tail for finishing.

Tip: Use a scrap of yarn in a contrasting color to mark each row if you are worried about missing a stitch.

(http://crochetme.com/tips/i-cord-crochet-way)


Finishing
Use tail of flap to sew it to the top, center of the back side of body. Weave in end.

Pleat the sides of the body and line up the holes in row 38. Thread i-cord through holes, sew the ends together to form a loop.

Felt in washing machine until desired effect is achieved checking it often to prevent overfelting. Shape the bag while still wet and allow to air dry. Drape the bag over a plastic covered cracker box or other box that will help the bag hold its shape while it dries.

Sew a coordinating button on to front of purse so it lines up with the button hole of the flap.


Notes
** Alternately, form an adjustable ring (see tutorial at http://www.crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html), 8 sc into the ring, sl st into top of first sc to join (8)


*** You can either fasten off at each color change and weave in the ends, or leave both colors attached, pulling the new color up along the inside of the bag to hide the seam. Be careful not to pull the yarn too tight using this method or the finished bag will be misshapen. I prefer this method because it uses less yarn and weaving in ends is one of my least favorite parts of crochet.

This is the first time I have written out one of my designs. Feel free to contact me with any questions or corrections.

Thanks for stopping by!

Welcome!

I started this blog to celebrate all things crochet.

In the future I plan to post free patterns that I have designed, as well as discuss new yarns, hooks, sites and shops.

Coming soon: a free pattern for a felted crochet booga bag.

Thanks for stopping by!

 
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